By Robert Matsumura, The Mountain Times
Many of us who have ventured about Mount Hood are familiar with the Cloud Cap Inn. Nestled on the rugged North Slope of the mountain at 6000 feet, the Cloud Cap Inn is rich with history, stunning views, and architectural significance, captivating visitors since its establishment. Have you ever wondered how this rustic structure came to be, and who was responsible for building it? The answers to that trace back to Portland in the late 19th century when the city itself was still in its infancy.
Origins and Construction
The year was 1889 when prominent Portlanders William M. Ladd, a banker, and Charles Erskine Scott Wood, an attorney and writer, had a vision of a mountain lodge on Mount Hood. Enlisting the expertise of architect William Whidden, they commissioned his firm to design a rustic 3,500-square-foot structure in a style that would be harmonious with its natural surroundings. Whidden and Lewis was a prominent firm at the time, having designed the grand Portland Hotel, the Forestry Building at the Lewis and Clark Expo of 1905, and later Portland City Hall.
To improve access to this remote location, Ladd and Wood hired Chinese laborers to enhance an existing wagon road up the mountain. A stagecoach company was also established to transport guests, ensuring that the inn was accessible to those from the city wishing to experience its beauty.
Lumber was sourced from the area with men from Hood River cutting the timber needed for construction. Originally, the inn was named the Inn at the Glaciers, but eventually it was re-named Cloud Cap Inn by Wood’s wife, Nanny, adding a personal touch to its history. Ladd’s wife Tilly Jane contributed to the effort by helping to run the work camp down the hill for the men who constructed the Inn. In honor of her efforts, a campground now resides there bearing her name. By the time Cloud Cap Inn was completed, Ladd and Wood had spent over $50,000, but they had succeeded in bringing their vision to fruition. Cloud Cap Inn blended seamlessly into the alpine landscape, providing magnificent views of Mount Hood and the surrounding forest, and providing top-notch accommodations for guests.
The Golden Age of Cloud Cap Inn
In the early 20th century, the Cloud Cap Inn flourished as a popular destination for tourists. With the rise of automobiles and improved roadways, access to Mount Hood became easier, encouraging more people to visit the mountain. The inn became a base for hikers and climbers aiming to reach the summit of Mount Hood, and it also drew skiers, as the sport exploded in popularity throughout the region.
In 1891, Ladd and Wood turned the Cloud Cap’s operation over to James and Sarah Langille, who added a homier feel and telephone service to the inn, making it more comfortable for guests. The Langilles ran Cloud Cap Inn for sixteen years until Sarah retired and turned operation of the inn over to their nephew, Horace Mecklem and his wife Olive, who had already been helping out for some time. In 1919, Homer Rogers, a Parkdale innkeeper, purchased Cloud Cap Inn, and eventually sold it to Cascade Development Corporation, which had grand plans for the site. With a loop highway planned for Mount Hood, the developers envisioned a lavish, enlarged hotel, including a tram to the summit. It wasn’t long before the Great Depression dashed those dreams to pieces and the construction of Timberline Lodge in 1938 pushed Cloud Cap into the background.
Decline and Preservation Efforts
In 1940, the U.S. Forest Service purchased the inn for $2,000. Sadly, however, it fell into disrepair and was closed in 1946. The agency initially planned to raze Cloud Cap, but in the 1950s, the Crag Rats, a mountain-rescue group, negotiated to maintain the inn. Utilizing Cloud Cap as their base of operation, the group conducted snow surveys, rescue operations, and outings — operations which continue to this day. Since 1999, the Crag Rats have coordinated extensive renovations on the inn in an effort to preserve Cloud Cap.
Although the inn is currently closed to the public, the Crag Rats and the U.S. Forest Service occasionally offer tours, allowing a glimpse into the rich history and enduring charm of this remarkable structure. The Cloud Cap Inn remains a symbol of the region’s heritage and an inspiration for future generations of adventurers and history enthusiasts alike.
Moving Forward
More than just a building, Cloud Cap Inn is a cherished part of the state’s history, reflecting the Oregonian spirit of adventure and the natural beauty of Mount Hood. From its origins in the late 19th century to its current status as a preserved historical site, the inn tells a story of resilience, community and the enduring allure of the great outdoors. As efforts continue to maintain and celebrate this iconic landmark, the Cloud Cap Inn will undoubtedly remain a significant piece of the Pacific Northwest’s cultural landscape.